So, I did everything I knew to do.

Step #1 – Observe ALL behavior.  This is how I noticed he was straining and preferred to pee on flat surfaces. Also, like I mentioned before, he’s a BIG kitty. So, normal litter boxes were too small for his liking. You see it was uncomfortable to turn around.

Step #2 – Change ONE thing at a time. After noticing the “Joe normal” boxes were too small and hard to get into (high sides), I decided to use the bottom of a plastic dog crate. (Who says you can’t use other things?) He began to walk into the box entrance and pee, then back out.  And by doing this he was now going to the box, sticking at least half of himself inside it, and peeing on the floor right at the entrance.

Step #3 – Keep changing ONE thing at a time, and reinforcing behavior you want. Even when he was only going halfway in the box (the last step), when I saw him pee on the floor I didn’t react. No yelling, no punishments, in fact when he finished I pet him. Why? Because that was improvement from peeing on the bedroom carpet. I tried moving the box, I added a box, changed litter type, and baited it with cat nip. None of that worked. Then I realized I was thinking of “cat” solutions instead of “Spartacus” solutions. Bingo! Flat surfaces! Puppy pee pads instead of litter!

Step #4 – Reward and maintain progress. Besides the obvious medical help I gave my cat throughout this process, retraining behavior was vital. In my mind, why the #?@% was my cat not acting like a cat and using the litter box? Well, because in Spartacus’s mind going in the #?@%ing litter box was painful, uncomfortable, and represented kitty hell.

Sometimes we get stuck in a rut. We think what the animal is supposed to do, and not what he is actually doing. Sometimes we think the only solutions are marketed for that particular pet and sold in the closest pet store. Sometimes we don’t walk a mile in their paws. And sometimes we are blinded by progress just because it’s not the final result.

Remember there’s always something to change, to change behavior. And if ANY behavior changes it’s progress.

First, the basics:

• Prevent the dog from going potty in the house.  Manage the environment to a small section of the house so you can always supervise your dog.  Crate your dog when you can’t supervise him.  Put your dog on a food and water schedule.  Reward your dog outside as soon as he is done going potty.
• If you acquired your dog from a breeder, or a rescue group that has foster parents, hopefully these people have been promoting proper potty habits.  If you acquired your dog from a shelter with kennels, or a pet store, please remember the only place for the dog to eliminate was in his kennel/cage and he may take longer to potty train.
• Puppies under six months of age are still learning how to control their muscles.  The rule of thumb for puppies is that they can “hold it” for a time equal to their age.  Example: A two month old puppy can hold themselves for two hours.  A three month old puppy can hold themselves for three hours.  Now this “equation” is not set in stone and the time can vary either up or down depending on the dog.
• Puppies need to relieve themselves: after sleeping; before, during and after play; before and after eating or drinking; and before allowing the puppy to roam about your home.
• Accidents can and will happen.  The more supervision with the dog, the less accidents will happen.  Make sure to clean up accidents as soon as possible with an enzymatic cleaner.
• Punishment does NOT work with any kind of potty training!  It does not matter if you catch your dog in the act.  The only thing a dog learns when humans get angry and yell is that the act of elimination is not to be seen by humans.  Dogs think “I’m making a piddle, and my human is yelling.  I’m sorry, I didn’t know that would make you very angry.  I’ll go out of your site the next time I have to use the facilities and hide it.”  Now punishing a dog for elimination in the house “after-the-fact” is just plain confusing for the dog.  Remember, whatever the dog was doing last is what the dog will think the correction is for.  May be the dog was chewing on his toy and not the TV remote control, or may be the dog was coming to you at the front door.  Do not rub the dog’s face in the mess unless you want to encourage eating poop.
• Having a dog on both a food and water schedule helps tremendously.  If you know when it goes in, you will have a very good idea when it’s coming out.
• Rewarding the dog for proper potty habits will encourage proper potty habits.  If a dog thinks they are the next best thing to sliced bread for using the restroom outside, they will want to repeat that behavior.  Remember, in training a dog for any behavior, timing and consistency are critical.  This means, every time the dog eliminates outside we reward the dog on the spot.  If the reward is too late (like waiting until the dog has entered the house) the dog could very well associate another behavior for the reward, like entering the house, or sitting for the treat.  If the reward in not consistent enough, the dog will be confused and potty training will take much longer.
• Most dogs like a clean living area.  Crates, a small room, and baby gates are some tools used to help a dog learn to hold themselves.
• Most dogs like to relieve themselves on soft surfaces.  This is why most dogs prefer grass to concrete.  In the house: carpet, the sofa, the bed (dog’s or human’s,) and soft blankets in a crate are usually the spots dogs use to eliminate.  During potty training (especially with puppies) it is strongly recommended to NOT put any kind of soft material in the crate.

Some common potty training problems:

I let my dog outside and all he does is play.  I’ve even been outside for an hour hoping the dog will use the facilities and nothing happens. – 1. The dog may not want to mess up his “play area.” A specific part of the yard needs to be used, or a walk around the block.  2. The dog has learned it doesn’t need to eliminate to reward himself outside with play.  The dog needs five minutes maximum outside to relieve himself, and if nothing happens the dog goes back into the crate for three to five more minutes.  Repeat the process until the dog eliminates outside, and reward as soon as the dog’s finished.  (Remember the dog is the next best thing to sliced bread for eliminating outside.)

I let my dog outside for a reasonable amount of time and as soon as I let him inside he pees on the floor.  – 1. The dog may think he is supposed to go inside.  This happens when there is not enough supervision and the dog goes at will inside, and the human(s) just don’t notice the messes; and/or there is a lack of communication to the dog, meaning an error in timing of the reward and consistency of rewarding the dog.  More supervision is needed and the dog needs to be crated or leashed to a human when left inside the house.  The dog needs five minutes maximum outside to relieve himself, and if nothing happens the dog goes back into the crate for three to five more minutes.  Repeat the process until the dog eliminates outside, and reward as soon as the dog’s finished.  2. The dog may not want to mess up his “play area.”  A specific part of the yard needs to be used as a potty area, or a walk around the block.

My dog is great in the house except for one room. -  1. The dog doesn’t understand the entire house is his home too, (and there are probably other messes that have gone undetected.)  Crate training was probably moved along too fast.  The dog should be back in the crate and moved along at a much slower rate as the “house expands.”  Meaning, the dog has the crate.  Then the dog has the crate and the kitchen.  Then the dog has the crate, the kitchen, and the hallway, etc.  2. The dog smells the last time he eliminated in the same spot.  Clean the area with an enzymatic cleaner.  Do NOT use anything ammonia based, since ammonia is one of the main ingredients in urine.  3. The dog may be marking his territory.  Start the “Nothing In Life Is Free” program.  Supervise the dog at all times so accidents don’t occur.  Spay or neuter the dog.

My dog was completely potty trained and just now started to piddle a small amount everywhere around the house. – 1. The dog may be marking his territory.  Start a NILIF program.  Use a crate and reward outside potty habits more.  Train the dog to hit a bell to go outside.  Supervise the dog at all times so accidents don’t occur.  Spay or neuter the dog.  2. The dog may have a medical condition.  See your veterinarian.

My dog eliminates in the crate.  – 1. The dog is not properly crate trained or could be under stress.  2. The dog is in the crate too long.  Dogs usually don’t want to potty in a crate, this doesn’t mean they won’t potty in a crate if left in one too long. Put the dog on a food, water, and walk schedule.  Give the dog more opportunities outside to eliminate.  3. There is something soft in the crate that can absorb the pee.  Take out anything soft and fluffy from the bottom of the crate.  (Remember dogs like to eliminate on soft things.)

My puppy pees on the way to the door (or at the door) when I let him out of the crate or when I am going to let him outside.  – 1. The puppy doesn’t have complete muscle control yet.  Movement usually stimulates a puppy to eliminate.  (This is why they must potty before and during and after playtime.)  Carry the puppy outside to use the bathroom.  Give the puppy more frequent potty breaks.  Distract with food or a toy to get the puppy outside.

My dog goes outside and then fakes going to the bathroom.  – 1. BE HAPPY!!! (Especially if this is a puppy faking it.)  If your dog fakes using the facilities outside, your dog is telling you that he knows what is expected of him. He is trying to make his human happy, and he understands potty habits outside gets him rewards.  2. The dog is not faking it, but straining to eliminate.  This can be a medical emergency and should be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible.

THINGS TO REMEMBER:

• Timing. Reward the dog as soon as the dog has finished eliminating outside.  Don’t wait.
• Consistency. Reward the dog every time he eliminates outside.
• Supervise. If the dog is consistently under supervision, (especially puppies) the dog will have a lot less room for error and will mess in the house less frequently.
• Asking to go out. Train the dog to hit a bell or bark to go outside.
• Crate Train. Most dogs are den clean, meaning that they don’t want to mess up their home.  This makes it easier for a dog to want to “hold it.”
• Schedule. A food and water schedule ensures a time frame for eliminating instead of guessing when the dog has to potty.  Also have several scheduled times per day for the dog to go outside and relieve himself.
• Patience. Potty Training is sometimes a slow process.  Understand some dogs can take up to six months to completely potty train.
• Reward. Anything the dog wants.  For most dogs this is food, play, praise, and petting.
• Log everything. This is especially helpful if you have an entire family who is “helping” with the potty training.  View an example of a potty training log HERE

I’m adding the finishing touches on my seminar for this Saturday, “Practical Solutions for Practical People.”  And as I created this presentation I remember all the clients I have helped over the years and even milestones I have overcome with my own dogs.  It’s pretty cool to share this information with a roomful of people.  (You can register for our seminars HERE.)  It makes me realize reinforcement is in the eye of the beholder.  You see, I actually like public speaking.  I look forward to it.  I feel all giddy and think, “this information could touch the lives of so many people and help so many dogs!”  And the simple fact of getting positive reinforcement training methods to the public that can solve so many common problems just makes me smile. I look forward to seeing you on Saturday, and I’d love to hear any comments.

POTTY MISTAKES

• DO everything in your power to make potty habits outside happen.  I can not tell you how many people call after a bout of bad weather because their dog re-trained himself to pee on the living room carpet.
• DO shovel at least a 10×10 area, and keep this area clean.  Don’t let snow pile on top of poo.  Your dog will know it’s there and may not want to walk in the area.
• DO reward your dog for going potty outside just like you would training a puppy.  Be happy and use treats, praise, and petting.  Don’t sound like a teenage girl at a Bon Jovi concert.
• DO supervise at all times and manage it so your dog doesn’t have the opportunity to go inside.  Use a crate and if your dog doesn’t potty outside, put him in the crate for a few minutes and then back outside.  Keep flip flopping him until he goes and then reward him.
• DON’T punish, yell, or rub his nose in it unless your goal is to make your dog want to potty in secret away from you.
• DON’T walk your dog on roads that have been salted (if possible).  The salt can be absorbed through foot pads and can cause stomach upset and dry cracked pads.
• DO wipe off your dogs feet every time you have to walk him on salted surfaces.  Use a sheet on the floor and walk your dog around several times if your dog won’t let you wipe his paws off.  Then call a trainer to help you so you can in the future.  Believe it or not, not all training is obedience.

FROSTBITE

• DO dry your pet off.  Dogs and cats can get frostbite.  Keep your pet as warm and dry as possible.
• DO use warm (NEVER hot) water compresses or soak feet for immediate treatment.  (You must have a constant supply to warm up your pet.  If you can’t continually warm your pet until temperature is normal again, then DON’T start.)  The affected area will be extremely painful as it warms up.  Then very gently and completely dry the entire treated area.  DON’T rub or massage it.
• DON’T use a heating pad or hair dryer.
• DO go to your vet ASAP even if you think you have completely treated your pet.  It can take several days to see the extent of the damage.
• DON’T give your pet any pain medication without your vet’s expressed permission

HYPOTHERMIA

• DO dry your pet off.  Dogs and cats can get hypothermia.
• DO use warm towels to wrap your pet.  (Putting dry towels in the dryer for a few minutes usually does the trick.)
• DO use warm water bottles wrapped in towels.  DON’T contact your pet directly.
• DO use a hair dryer, especially if your pet is wet.  Just make sure you are not using it on any areas with frostbite.
• DO go to your vet immediately.  Hypothermia can be life threatening.

COMMON SENSE

• DO pay attention how long your pet is outside.
• DO walk your dog on a leash, especially near roads with cars who might have trouble stopping.
• DO play with your dog, use interactive toys, or train to physically and mentally stimulate your pet so they don’t drive you crazy and start bouncing off the walls because they’re stuck inside more.
• DON’T bring your pet with you in the car.  If you get stuck or (heaven forbid) in an accident, you will have your pet to worry about too.
• DON’T let your dog walk or run on ice.  They can slip and break themselves just like we can.
• DO make sure you have plenty of supplies.  Just add dog food and cat litter to the list when you buy milk, bread, and toilet paper.
• DON’T get bend out of shape if your dog does something “normal” that he has always done, but it’s not cool when he’s covered in wet snow: like jumping on the sofa.  (Simple way to manage that would be to have the behavior on cue, when he’s invited he can jump up on the sofa.)
• And last but not least, if you see your dog licking his paws, look to see if there is something stuck in them, and double check for cuts.  Hardened snow and ice can be sharp on pads.