This post is intended to be read by people with a sense of humor, because it points out and pokes fun at how we “more intelligent higher species” can be so dumb.
I think I have seen and heard my, your, and your brother’s fair share of stupid dog don’ts that people do. Even to this day there are still times I shake my head and think, “What?!?!!?” Here are my favorite top five:
1. Bite your dog on the ear. - This has got to be my absolute favorite. Why in heaven’s sake would you deliberately put your face near the pointy end of a reactive dog? Even better, who actually thinks they are fast enough to not get bit? Why would causing pain be a good idea in the first place and what is it supposed to teach?
2. Reach your hand out to strange dogs so they can sniff you. — This one is good for a chuckle. Like the dog can’t smell you unless you reach out your hand. Like we live in an invisible force-field immune to a dog’s sniffer. Besides that “duh” factor, how smart is it to reach right for the face of a strange dog? Believe it or not, that’s quite rude to do to a dog.
3. Train my dog not to bite my kid even while he’s: pulling his tail, smooshing his face, hugging him, using him to learn how to stand and grabbing onto his fur with a vice grip, smacking him, pulling his whiskers, yelling in his ear, etc, etc, etc. No, sorry I can’t. Because every living creature has their breaking point and constantly pushing your dog past his by bad parenting and lack of supervision can’t be fixed without realizing your kid can’t treat the dog like crap. Sorry. Get a stuffed animal for your kid to play with. I always want to drop the professional politically correct nature of myself and ask people, “Can I poke your eye, yell into your ear, steal your lunch right out of your hand, grab your husband’s ass, and anything else I can think of that is just completely crossing every boundary of respect and personal space and see how you like me?”
4. That dog must be friendly because his tail is wagging. — Yet another popular thought many people believe (and usually followed by stupid human faux pas #2.) Understanding basic canine body language is not too difficult and the big fat rule numero uno is look at the whole dog! Even if you don’t take into consideration the environment or any triggers, and zone into just the tail there are an array of tail movements and carriages. Is it low, high, stiff, only wagging at the top, fast, slow, hair standing up on it, methodically back and forth.…
5. Saying a cue over and over until physically making the dog do it. — An example of this would be, “Sit. Sit. Sit. Sit.Sit. Sit.Sit. Sit.Sit. Sit.Sit. Sit.Sit. Sit.Sit. Sit.Sit. Sit.Sit. Sit! SIT!” and then just pushing the dog’s bum. I never got that. Why waste your breath? Clearly the dog doesn’t understand “sit” in the environment he’s in or there is zero motivation to do so. Either way, it’s silly to nag your dog. Next time, just bring a block of cheese with you or train for generalization around distractions if you expect results. Just because a dog can sit in the kitchen doesn’t mean he will at the vet’s. That’s the same as assuming a new driver can drive on the interstate just because they drove around the block a few times. Sorry, you can’t have my car keys.
This is a guest blog from Casey Lomonaco, KPA CTP, APDT owner of Rewarding Behaviors Dog Training (www.rewardingbehaviors.com) I asked her if she would write something about the BARF (Bones and Raw Food) diet because she is an avid raw feeder. I dabbled with raw a little bit when my dogs were young with fantastic results. However, I am no where near the expert she is. A great blog to check out for more information is http://irawfeed.blogspot.com
If you were to visit my home and voyage into the basement, you would be greeted with a sight unexpected in any vegetarian household – two full-sized freezers (one chest freezer, one upright) chock full of buffalo, rabbit, smelt, venison, pork, chicken, beef, turkey, whiting, duck, an assortment of organ meats, and a fair bit of raw green tripe.
I’ve been a vegetarian for nearly 18 years now, and for the past three of those years have been feeding my dogs a home-prepared raw diet. I was thrilled when my friend Jules invited me on board at her fantastic Sit, Stay, and Play blog to discuss what I feel is one of the best decisions I’ve ever made on behalf of my dogs. Throughout my history as a dog owner, I’ve run the gamut on feeding choices. Growing up, we fed our dogs Dad’s or whatever was on sale at the grocery store. When I got my own dogs, I fed what I understood to be “premium” diets, Science Diet and Iam’s. After a bit of research, I realized that there were far better dog foods on the market and expanded to offering my dogs Innova brand foods, eventually transitioning to a variety of grain-free kibbles and canned products.
I did approximately 6 months worth of research before transitioning my dogs onto a raw diet. It was scary for me, as a very dedicated pet owner, to take responsibility for my dogs’ nutrition. Most dog owners have been taught for as long as we can remember that we are not capable of creating a “nutritionally complete” and “balanced” diet for dogs and that “people food is a no-no.” There was definitely a learning curve to feeding this new diet once I made the leap. I was confronted with many culturally reinforced myths and errant beliefs about raw diets. “Raw diets are a fad.” “Your dog will become a blood thirsty savage.” “Your dog will die.” “Your entire family is in danger from blood-thirsty savage dogs and imminent bacterial destruction.” While the first myth always seemed silly to me (what the heck did dogs eat before the kibble industry arose in the twentieth century?), the latter myths were downright scary. Miracle of miracles, my dogs are not blood-thirsty savages, are both healthier than they’ve ever been, and Jim and I are relatively healthy human beings and happy to report that we have noted no human casualties despite hosting many visitors in the past three years.
Here is a fantastic website dedicated to dispelling many of the common myths and misconceptions about raw food diets for dogs: http://www.rawfed.com/myths/
IS A RAW DIET RIGHT FOR YOUR DOG?
In my personal opinion (and please remember I am not a veterinarian or nutritionist), the dog that cannot thrive on a raw diet is a rare exception. If you look at your dog’s teeth, you will see that they are designed to eat meat. That said, raw diets are not for everyone, as feeding raw, particularly for a DIY-er like myself, is a lot more involved than just measuring out a given amount of kibble and plopping it in a bowl at feeding times. If you decide you would like to feed raw, you can choose to purchase pre-made raw foods or you can make your own. Pre-made raw blends are generally more expensive (sometimes significantly more costly) to feed than the DIY version, but are much more convenient and less messy. DIY raw can save you quite a bit on your food budget, but is more involved and requires a couple hours’ a month preparation time on your part.
MY VET SAYS I SHOULDN’T FEED RAW
If you choose to feed your dog a raw diet, be prepared for resistance from your veterinarian. Most veterinarians have a very good reason for dissuading clients from switching to a raw diet. Why? Because a poorly constructed, slipshod raw diet is dangerous. It is not as easy as throwing a hamburger on your floor each day at your dog’s mealtime. It requires careful planning and a bit of research to feed raw correctly. If you are unable to provide an appropriate and well-balanced raw diet, it may be healthier for your dog to eat a high-quality kibble or canned food, perhaps with occasional raw meals included.
To be honest, my veterinarian was initially not thrilled that I decided to transition my dogs to raw. She is a trusted professional and someone who I respect a great deal, and she knows that I am slightly maniacal about doing all I can to ensure my dogs’ optimal health, physically and behaviorally. I discussed my research with her, showing her an Excel file I had created to be my feeding guide as I constructed my dogs’ diets. I offered to email my spreadsheet to her. At subsequent check ups, my veterinarian marvels at my dogs’ good health, beautiful coats, shiny teeth, bright eyes, lack of doggy breath, and muscular condition. I know that she has forwarded the spreadsheet to other clients interested in feeding raw as an example of what is involved in “doing it right.” Since I originally created the spreadsheet, I was able to enlist the help of some of my raw feeding mentors to improve it tenfold. I will share the spreadsheet at the end of this entry for all of you to use as a resource.
RAW FEEDING RESOURCES
I participate in an online community where there is a fantastic raw feeding forum. Many of the raw feeders on this forum, generous though they are with information, grew tired of answering the same questions over and over again each time a new raw feeder joined the forum, so a compilation of great internet raw feeding resources was created which could be sent as an information library for those looking for more information on raw feeding. The thread is called “So You’re Interested in Feeding Raw?” and can be found here: http://www.dogster.com/forums/Raw_Food_Diet/thread/431875
When I first transitioned to raw, I needed to create a spreadsheet to help me plan my meals. Raw fed dogs are generally fed between 1.5 and 6% of body weight, depending on age, breed, activity level, and individual metabolism. My spreadsheet auto-calculated the amounts I’d need of various types of foods in the diet for each of these activity levels both daily and weekly. Some wonderful raw feeding friends helped me make vast improvements on my original spreadsheet, including new information based on NRC guidelines, the ability to auto-calculate critical values based on information entered by the user, and making it all around more informative and functional. Once you learn the “how’s and why’s” of a raw feeding diet from the “So You’re Interested in Feeding Raw?” page, check out the spreadsheet for a detailed diet plan: http://www.dogster.com/forums/Raw_Food_Diet/thread/491589 (again, do check this plan over with your vet and remember that we are not veterinarians, just a bunch of well-intentioned nutrition nerds).
The Whole Dog Journal is a fantastic resource with lots of wonderful articles on raw feeding. You may purchase back issue articles from their website at www.whole-dog-journal.com after doing an article search for “raw feeding” to get more wonderful information.
If you are looking to learn more about raw feeding, check out books available by Tom Lonsdale, Ian Billinghurst, Kymythy Schultze, Monica Segal, and Dr. Karen Becker, among others.
I also highly suggest joining the raw feeding forum on dogster, for more help on answering questions you may have as a new raw feeder and to get support on your new nutrition plan for your favorite dog!
I honestly could not have said it better myself. You NEED to see this post,
The last days of pain training are upon us
February 22nd, 2010 by Drayton Michaels
http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/last-days-pain-training-are-upon-us
FOLLOW UP 3/5/10: this has been taken down because CM’s legal team threatened Dog Star Daily. The author has written a follow up post here: http://trainertails.blogspot.com/2010/03/im-not-afraid-of-corporate-thugs.html
SENATE BILL 505 — Pet Stores Sale of Dogs Less than 9 Months of Age Prohibited
A hearing for Senate Bill 505 is scheduled for February 18, 2010 at 1:00 p.m. before the Senate Finance Committee. Find a list of committee members and address for the hearing here. F ind contact information by clicking on their names here. And find out who is your rep here.
This bill is proposed to start October 1, 2010.
A RETAIL PET STORE IN THE STATE MAY NOT DISPLAY, SELL, DELIVER, OFFER FOR SALE OR ADOPTION, BARTER, AUCTION, GIVE AWAY, OR OTHERWISE TRANSFER OR DISPOSE OF A DOG LESS THAN 9 MONTHS OF AGE.
Pet stores who violate this would be subject to a $500 fine for a first offense, and $1000 fine for each subsequent offense.
For more animal legal information visit this web site.
Westminster Kennel Club Winners
BEST IN SHOW
Ch Roundtown Mercedes
Breed: Scottish Terrier
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1ST PLACE — Ch Starline’s Chanel
Breed: Whippet
2ND PLACE — Ch Grandcru Clos Erasmus
Breed: Greyhound
3RD PLACE - Ch Foxcliffe Hickory Wind
Breed: Scottish Deerhound
4TH PLACE - Ch Rokeena Carte Blanche
Breed: Petits Bassets Griffons Vendeen
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1ST PLACE — Ch Smash JP Moon Walk
Breed: Poodle (Toy)
2ND PLACE — Ch Linn-Lee’s For The Good Times
Breed: Pekingese
3RD PLACE — Ch Hallmark Jolei Austin Powers
Breed: Shih Tzu
4TH PLACE - Ch Forevr Errol Flynn
Breed: Papillon
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1ST PLACE — Ch Robobull Fabelhaft Im On Fire
Breed: French Bulldog
2ND PLACE - Ch Chaoyang Chick Magnet At Asia
Breed: Chinese Shar-Pei
3RD PLACE — Ch Kepley’s Showbiz Razzle Dazzle
Breed: Bulldog
4TH PLACE — Ch Splash Di Caprio
Breed: Poodle (Miniature)
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1ST PLACE — Ch Cordmaker Field Of Dreams
Breed: Puli
2ND PLACE — Ch Uri De Beauvoir
Breed: Belgian Sheepdog
3RD PLACE — Ch Tolkien Raintree Mister Baggins
Breed: Bearded Collie
4TH PLACE — Ch Kridler’s Nutmeg V Signature
Breed: German Shepherd Dog
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1ST PLACE — Ch Willowick Talltean
Breed: Brittany
2ND PLACE — Ch Poole’s Ide Got Water RN
Breed: Spaniel (Irish Water)
3RD PLACE — Ch Firethorn And Sandpiper Easy On The Eyes
Breed: Setter (Gordon)
4TH PLACE — Ch Beechcroft Study’s Top Secret
Breed: Retriever (Labrador)
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1ST PLACE — Ch Allure Blazing Star Alisaton
Breed: Doberman Pinscher
2ND PLACE — Ch Winfall Brookwood Styled Dream
Breed: Boxer
3RD PLACE — Ch Aviators Luck Be A Lady
Breed: Portuguese Water Dog
4TH PLACE — Ch Sno Klassic Play The Game
Breed: Alaskan Malamute
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1ST PLACE — Ch Roundtown Mercedes Of Maryscot
Breed: Scottish Terrier
2ND PLACE — Ch J’Cobe Kemosabe Vigilante Justice
Breed: Fox Terrier (Smooth)
3RD PLACE — Ch Skyscot’s Poker Chip
Breed: Norwich Terrier
4TH PLACE — Ch Stirling Cool Hand Luke
Breed: Airedale Terrier
“Clicker training? What is that? How can a cute plastic noise maker train my dog?” I hear this clicker crap all the time. Disbelievers due to lack of understanding the power of communication the sound has. Don’t hate the tool. Learn how to use it. Ever get a new cell phone where everything is different? Don’t hate the phone, learn how it works. Thankfully there is only one button on a clicker.
So how does clicker training work? Unfortunately, just because it has a button doesn’t mean it’s a “good dog” remote control. (And FYI, holding it out pointing it at your dog is rude.) The sound the clicker makes is the important part. The sound of the click is a precise, clear, pin point communication that translates in the dog’s brain “reward!” When a dog hears the click, the dog literally hears, “That’s It! You just did the thing I want and now I am going to reward you!” So chances are the dog will want to repeat what he just did. A little hand eye coordination is all it takes to click exactly what you want and train just about anything.
Take a moment and play this capture the sheep game. Go ahead, I’ll wait…
So how did you do? Bobbing bobcat? Sluggish snail? Turbo-charged cheetah? It’s a great way to measure your reaction time. And trust me, if you can play this game, at any level, you can time a clicker with no worries.
First thing to do is to load the clicker. Then decide on something you want to teach your dog. Here is an example of using the clicker to train a dog with a jumping problem.
See “Don’t Jump, It Won’t Work” directly on YouTube HERE
Oatmeal Peanut Butter Biscuits
- 1/2 cup oats
- 1/2 cup cornmeal
- 2 cups flour
- 1/2 cup veg oil
- 1/2 cup water (i usually use chicken or beef bouillon to add flavor)
- 2 eggs
- 2 tsp of vanilla
- 3 big spoonfuls of Peanut Butter (about 3–4 tbsp)
This Valentine’s Day remember to cherish your pet by putting away the presents. Teddy bears will become choking chew toy hazards and chocolate will become a trip to the emergency vet. Happy Valentine’s Day to you. Tell your pet his dreams of going to Candy Mountain to swim in the chocolate waterfall with sugar plum fairies just ain’t happening.
Chocolate was in the TOP 10 Pet Poisons for 2009. And continues to be a main culprit in pet poisoning. Dogs seem to be listed more than cats. Not because chocolate is any less bad for cats, but because cats just don’t eat it as much. Thankfully, cats just don’t have the sweet tooth dogs have. So the good news about cats is they generally don’t want chocolate, the bad news is when they do it’s big trouble. Their small mass is far more susceptible to toxic levels compared to your average size dog.
The entire reason chocolate is bad for pets is because of the toxic compounds called methylxanthines, specifically theobromine and caffeine. Dogs (and cats) don’t have the same enzymes or metabolism we do, so chocolate is extremely difficult for them to digest. The half life (once ingested) in dogs is estimated at 17.5 hours. The lethal dose of theobromine for dogs is between 100mg to 200mg per kg of bodyweight. However, according to the ASPCA’s Poison Control Center, symptoms appeared at 20 mg/kg, with severe symptoms at 40–50 mg/kg, and seizures at 60 mg/kg. The amount ingested, type of chocolate, and your dog’s body weight will determine your particular dog’s fate. See this Chocolate Chart for a better idea between the difference of: white, milk, dark, semi-sweet, bakers, & cocoa, and how it compares to your dog’s weight.
Estimated Theobromine Per Ounce of Chocolate
- White chocolate = 1 mg/oz
- Milk chocolate = 44–64 mg/oz
- Dark chocolate is = 150–160 mg/oz
- Semisweet chocolate is = 150–160 mg/oz
- Baker’s chocolate = 450 mg/oz
- Cocoa powder = 800 mg/oz
Symptoms can be seen after four hours but can sometimes take as long as 24 hours and range from vomiting, diarrhea, frequent urination, hard (to the touch) stomach area, sensitivity in the stomach area, hyperactivity, cardiac arrhythmia, seizures, and death. Eating chocolate is very serious and you should call your vet or the ASPCA’s Poison Hotline (888–426-4435, fee applies) immediately. Since there are so many variables, there is no specific treatment for chocolate poisoning. Usually your medical professional will advise you to induce vomiting by hydrogen peroxide (one teaspoon per ten pounds of body weight) or syrup of ipecac, if it has been under two hours since initial ingestion. I’m no vet but I do know hydrogen peroxide should be used sparingly in extreme emergencies because this can cause esophageal ulcers. I would call death by chocolate a reason to use it myself, it’s the greater evil. Activated charcoal is said to also help absorb toxins. Your dog may have to go in and be put on fluids, treated for seizures, and/or monitored for heart failure.
If your dog gets a hold of one M&M don’t panic. Chances are he’ll live. Me? I’d rather have my dog (or cat) eat zero parts per million of a known, deadly toxin.
For more information on theobromine and why chocolate is harmful to pets see:
“Chocolate intoxication” by Sharon Gwaltney-Brant, DVM, PhD
Merck Veterinary Manual — chocolate
“How Chocolate Can Poison Your Dogs,” Vet Info
“Leave The Chocolate Out of Rover’s Celebrations,” FDA
Since we just got about three feet of snow, I figured it might be a good idea to post some cold weather dos and don’ts.
POTTY MISTAKES
- DO everything in your power to make potty habits outside happen. I can not tell you how many people call after a bout of bad weather because their dog re-trained himself to pee on the living room carpet.
- DO shovel at least a 10x10 area, and keep this area clean. Don’t let snow pile on top of poo. Your dog will know it’s there and may not want to walk in the area.
- DO reward your dog for going potty outside just like you would training a puppy. Be happy and use treats, praise, and petting. Don’t sound like a teenage girl at a Bon Jovi concert.
- DO supervise at all times and manage it so your dog doesn’t have the opportunity to go inside. Use a crate and if your dog doesn’t potty outside, put him in the crate for a few minutes and then back outside. Keep flip flopping him until he goes and then reward him.
- DON’T punish, yell, or rub his nose in it unless your goal is to make your dog want to potty in secret away from you.
- DON’T walk your dog on roads that have been salted (if possible). The salt can be absorbed through foot pads and can cause stomach upset and dry cracked pads.
- DO wipe off your dogs feet every time you have to walk him on salted surfaces. Use a sheet on the floor and walk your dog around several times if your dog won’t let you wipe his paws off. Then call a trainer to help you so you can in the future. Believe it or not, not all training is obedience.
FROSTBITE
- DO dry your pet off. Dogs and cats can get frostbite. Keep your pet as warm and dry as possible.
- DO use warm (NEVER hot) water compresses or soak feet for immediate treatment. (You must have a constant supply to warm up your pet. If you can’t continually warm your pet until temperature is normal again, then DON’T start.) The affected area will be extremely painful as it warms up. Then very gently and completely dry the entire treated area. DON’T rub or massage it.
- DON’T use a heating pad or hair dryer.
- DO go to your vet ASAP even if you think you have completely treated your pet. It can take several days to see the extent of the damage.
- DON’T give your pet any pain medication without your vet’s expressed permission
HYPOTHERMIA
- DO dry your pet off. Dogs and cats can get hypothermia.
- DO use warm towels to wrap your pet. (Putting dry towels in the dryer for a few minutes usually does the trick.)
- DO use warm water bottles wrapped in towels. DON’T contact your pet directly.
- DO use a hair dryer, especially if your pet is wet. Just make sure you are not using it on any areas with frostbite.
- DO go to your vet immediately. Hypothermia can be life threatening.
COMMON SENSE
- DO pay attention how long your pet is outside.
- DO walk your dog on a leash, especially near roads with cars who might have trouble stopping.
- DO play with your dog, use interactive toys, or train to physically and mentally stimulate your pet so they don’t drive you crazy and start bouncing off the walls because they’re stuck inside more.
- DON’T bring your pet with you in the car. If you get stuck or (heaven forbid) in an accident, you will have your pet to worry about too.
- DON’T let your dog walk or run on ice. They can slip and break themselves just like we can.
- DO make sure you have plenty of supplies. Just add dog food and cat litter to the list when you buy milk, bread, and toilet paper.
- DON’T get bend out of shape if your dog does something “normal” that he has always done, but it’s not cool when he’s covered in wet snow: like jumping on the sofa. (Simple way to manage that would be to have the behavior on cue, when he’s invited he can jump up on the sofa.)
- And last but not least, if you see your dog licking his paws, look to see if there is something stuck in them, and double check for cuts. Hardened snow and ice can be sharp on pads.

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