
So my big fat cat Spartacus just went through one heck of a urinary dilemma. He had crystals, UTI, bacteria infection, etc. He was also one of the lucky kitties who survived a total blockage. During all this he started to pee outside the litter box.
So, I did everything I knew to do.
Step #1 — Observe ALL behavior. This is how I noticed he was straining and preferred to pee on flat surfaces. Also, like I mentioned before, he’s a BIG kitty. So, normal litter boxes were too small for his liking. You see it was uncomfortable to turn around.
Step #2 — Change ONE thing at a time. After noticing the “Joe normal” boxes were too small and hard to get into (high sides), I decided to use the bottom of a plastic dog crate. (Who says you can’t use other things?) He began to walk into the box entrance and pee, then back out. And by doing this he was now going to the box, sticking at least half of himself inside it, and peeing on the floor right at the entrance.
Step #3 — Keep changing ONE thing at a time, and reinforcing behavior you want. Even when he was only going halfway in the box (the last step), when I saw him pee on the floor I didn’t react. No yelling, no punishments, in fact when he finished I pet him. Why? Because that was improvement from peeing on the bedroom carpet. I tried moving the box, I added a box, changed litter type, and baited it with cat nip. None of that worked. Then I realized I was thinking of “cat” solutions instead of “Spartacus” solutions. Bingo! Flat surfaces! Puppy pee pads instead of litter!
Step #4 — Reward and maintain progress. Besides the obvious medical help I gave my cat throughout this process, retraining behavior was vital. In my mind, why the #?@% was my cat not acting like a cat and using the litter box? Well, because in Spartacus’s mind going in the #?@%ing litter box was painful, uncomfortable, and represented kitty hell.
Sometimes we get stuck in a rut. We think what the animal is supposed to do, and not what he is actually doing. Sometimes we think the only solutions are marketed for that particular pet and sold in the closest pet store. Sometimes we don’t walk a mile in their paws. And sometimes we are blinded by progress just because it’s not the final result.
Remember there’s always something to change, to change behavior. And if ANY behavior changes it’s progress.
Dogs are just like most other animals, including us. So it always makes me smile when I hear the, “I want my dog to want to please me” statement. If you want me to give it to you straight, here it is:
Dogs don’t go out of their way to please us. Dogs go out of their way to get something they want or avoid something they don’t want. So ask yourself, what happens to the dog? What happens when you say “Come?” Does he go into a crate for 8 hours? Get a bath? Leave the dog park? Now think about what happens when we say “Sit?” Does he get a treat? Get a tummy rub? Get his leash on and go for a walk? Get dinner? For whatever reason, most people reward sit, AND use random rewards (aka, make rewards interesting by changing them up), BUT for whatever reason, most people don’t randomly reward other behaviors the same way. This makes sit a super strong behavior with little chance for extinction, while everything else is “meeh.”
Me? Sure I want a dog who “wants to work for me.” I want a dog who is “on the payroll” with random rewards. I want a dog who can’t wait for me to give the next cue so he can comply as fast as possible. And this is done through positive training and practice to make your dog a gambler, to see what the next goodie is in store for him.
So put your dog on the payroll. He doesn’t have to work full time, but should at least have a part time gig. That’s how you get a dog who “wants to please you.” When you think about it, he’s only working to get something to please himself, by doing things that we want. But hey, we’re no different! And I for one, would like a dog who doesn’t want to call out for a personal day.
- Extensive List of various financial aid programs compiled by United Animal Nations
- Extensive List of various financial aid programs compiled by The Humane Society of the United States
- Extensive List of various financial aid programs compiled by PGAA
- Angels4Animals Services range from financial aid to complete treatment to those pets and pet owners in need
- American Animal Hospital Association Grants for low income/financial hardship cases as well as Good Samaritan cases
- United Animal Nations’ Lifeline Grants Medical grants of approximately $100 to $300
- IMOM Financial Aid Grants for life-threatening emergencies as well as Fundraising Privileges
- Care Credit Credit granted specifically for medical care
- The Pet Fund Provides financial assistance to owners of domestic animals in need of vet care
- Piggers’ Pals, A Foundation of Hope Assists families in need that require financial assistance for advanced medical and/or surgical care that will extend quantity and quality of life of their pet
- Gracie Foundation Provides financial assistance to non-profit rescue groups. Provides immediate response and crucial supplies to pets in emergency situations
- Onyx and Breezy Medical treatment of animals where hardship is present
- Feline Veterinary Emergency Assistance Program For low-income California residents
- Cats in Crisis - Crisis Care Fund Provides funding for cats currently up for adoption and recently adopted cat with chronic medical conditions.
- Cats in Crisis Stripes Fund Provides funding to financially challenged individuals who have cats with heart disease or thyroid disease
- Cats in Crisis Gillie Fund Provides funding to financially challenged individuals who have cats with neurological conditions and mobility impairments
- Cats in Crisis Mesa Fund Provides funding to financially challenged individuals who have cats with renal disease
- Cats in Crisis 9 Lives Emergency Fund Provides help for cats who have a life-threatening or critical illness or injury that don’t meet the requirements of any of the other Cats in Crisis Funds
Ailment-specific:
- Land of Puregold Foundation Grants for working/service dogs with cancer
- The Magic Bullet Fund Provides financial assistance to caretakers of canines with cancer who cannot afford treatment.
- Dog and Cat Cancer Fund Provides financial assistance to “underpriveleged” owners of dogs and cats with cancer
- Deaf Dog Education Action Fund Provides emergency medical support of owners/fosters of newly placed deaf dogs and donates costs to transport deaf dogs to their new “forever” homes.
Canine Breed-specific:
- Pit Bull Rescue Central Medical funds for owned, fostered or sheltered pit bulls meeting certain criteria
- Animal Farm Foundation Pit bull-specific grants in the areas of Spay-Neuter programs, CGC incentives, achievement awards and “Perfect Match” awards
- Akita Club of America Funds emergency medical needs, including heartworm treatment for purebred Akitas that are abandoned, rescued or at municipal shelters
- Australian Cattle Dog Rescue, Inc. Medical Fund for purebred Australian Cattle Dogs (aka Queensland Heelers) that are in need of medical treatment and have been rescued and are in foster care
- BEHAF (Bernese Mountain Dogs) Provides financial assistance to owners of purebred Bernese Mountain Dogs for medical expenses
- Boxer Rescue Foundation Financial grants for the medical care of Boxers in foster care
- Chow Chow Club, Inc’s Welfare Committee Provides financial assistance to rescue volunteers and includes spaying or neutering, vaccinations, heartworm testing, entropian correction
- CorgiAid, Inc. Provides financial funding for the medical care of rescue, foster, or adopted Corgis and Corgi mixes
- Doberman 911 Offers financial medical aid for Dobermans with special medical needs. They also aid in the fostering and re-homing of senior Dobermans
- The Goldstock Fund Provides funds to rescue organizations or individuals for transportation, boarding, evaluations and medical costs of Golden Retrievers and “golden hearted dogs” taken into rescue
- Keeshond Sunshine Rescue Foundation Provides financial assistance for medical assistance of rescued Keeshonds in foster care
- Lab Med Medical Fund for rescued/fostered Labrador Retrievers needing emergency care (Dogs must be purebred Labrador Retrievers or predominantly Labs, exhibiting strong Labrador characteristics & traits)
- Labrador Lifeline, Inc. For owners or rescuers of purebred Labrador Retrievers who are in need of financial assistance. Assists eligible Lab owners/caretakers with medical assistance, transportation needs, boarding costs, etc.
- Labrador Harbor Provides medical/surgical or training intervention for rescue/foster and owned dogs if caretaker shows financial need. Dog must be spayed/neutered or sign agreement to be spayed/neutered when health permits.
- Pyramedic Trust Provides financial assistance to Great Pyrenese owners and rescuers in need of emergency medical care
- Tibetan Spaniel Trust Provides financial assistance to those who rescue Tibetan Spaniels
- Dougal’s Fund Provides medical funding when the dog’s caretaker can’t otherwise afford it for short-legged terriers such as Scotties, Westies, Cairns, Norwich, Norfolk, etc.
- Westie Med, Inc. Provides financial aid to injured or ill rescue Westies
For Non-Profit and/or Rescue Groups:
- PetSmart Charities Various grants to non-profits for spay/neuter, emergency relief, etc.
- DJ&T Foundation Canine Spay/Neuter grants to non-profits
- Pilots N Paws Flies rescue animals to new homes when transport is otherwise difficult or impossible
- Click To Give An internet site you can visit daily to “click & give” food and care to various rescues, shelters, and charities around the world
When we held group classes we rarely, and I mean almost never had a barking issue. There was always plenty of space between dogs, barriers (we used plastic airline crates so then people could have a table too), and even another room connected by a half door (for the owner to see in). And although the set up was great, I have to think that was only part of it.
The main trick in a group dog training class is to train the dog. The other part of the job many people don’t realize is to train the clients (the people) how to train their dog. Therefore one of the first things we would teach people to do was about barking. If they heard another dog bark in class, no matter what their dog was doing, they were to click and treat their dog, each and every time they heard a bark. What started to happen was the dogs in class actually learned to focus on their owners when another dog barked. Because when the dog heard a bark, a reinforcement would come from their owner, so they learned to pay attention to their owners. And sooner than later, the owner could train through hearing a barking dog.
We didn’t get a lot of practice though, because we also would instruct the client who had the barker. The owners of the barking dog were instructed to completely ignore the barking dog until he paid some kind of attention to them, and then completely try and engage him by easy cues (sit, paw, target, etc) and click and treat for working. The barker learned no rewards happened from his owners, nor the other clients, nor the other dogs. After testing out the barking a few times the dog would learn there was no reward. And with the lack of reinforcement, the barking behavior extinguished.
The secret behind a dog that comes when his owner calls him is that the dog wants to come back to the owner. The people interacting with the dog make the recall fun and rewarding. This means the people training the dog never punish the dog, under any circumstances, when the dog returns to them. One of the most successful ways to train a dog to come when called is to train with positive reinforcement. Every time the dog comes back to the owner, the dog is rewarded with food, praise, lots of petting and love, or a favorite toy. This will set the dog up for success, and the dog will really enjoy coming back to the owner when called. Before we discuss some tips on a reliable recall, let’s take a look at some “common human mistakes.” These are listed only so we can be aware of them, and to help avoid these situations. These situations will also help us keep in mind that the recall has to be fun from the dog’s point of view.
Common human mistake: The dog is getting into the trash, or chewing on the $90 pair of shoes. The owner gets mad and calls the dog over to yell at him.
Dog’s reaction: “It’s not fun to come when called. I’ll do it this time because I’m scared when you get mad. I slink over to you, with what you mistake as guilt, but what is really submission. I don’t understand you are trying to punish me for a behavior that happened somewhere else, and probably about 2 minutes before I got over to you.”
Reality: The dog will think he is being yelled at for coming when called. This is in no way fun for the dog. Next time the dog will avoid the recall to avoid the yelling.
How to avoid this situation: Don’t let the dog have access to “no-no’s.” Have a trash can with a lid, and put the shoes in a closet. Teach the dog basic obedience like “leave it” and “drop it.” Talk to a qualified trainer about house destruction. Never call the dog over to punish him.
Common human mistake: A dog has run away from his owner outside and takes his time coming back. The owner becomes angry that first the dog got away, and second that the dog didn’t respond to the first “come” command. The owner begins to chase the dog.
Dog’s reaction: “Wow, it’s fun to run around outside. Is that a squirrel? I need exercise. Look, there’s my owner. Oh, fun, he wants to chase me! I can out-run him!”
Reality: Chasing a dog only makes the dog run away faster. Dogs usually love the chase game, and this will teach the dog to run away.
How to avoid this situation: Make sure the dog is reliable with his obedience in a distracting situation, like the great outdoors. If the dog has never practiced his obedience around distractions, it’s really not fair to think the dog should or would respond in this environment. Also, instead of chasing the dog, some dogs will gladly chase their human. Try and run in the other direction. The ideal solution is to make sure the dog doesn’t have the opportunity to get away outside. Teach the dog to wait at doorways, and teach proper leash manners.
Common human mistake: While playing in the dog park the dog is called to “come.” The dog does respond to the command, but not with enthusiasm. The owner then leaves the dog park, or crates the dog for the day.
Dog’s reaction: “I understand what ‘come’ means. Sometimes I even get treats. Lately though, I seem to leave all my friends at the park, or have to be in the crate for a while. Next time I may want to play more, or not go into the crate. I wonder when I’ll get food again.”
Reality: Remember the recall has to be fun in the dog’s point of view. Leaving doggie friends and crating up for the day isn’t as much fun as food or play.
How to avoid this situation: Don’t consistently call the dog to leave fun situations. Instead, call the dog, and send him back out for more fun. If the dog is getting more praise and permission to play almost every time he comes back, this will out weigh the final “come” when it is time to leave. If this is a crate situation, pick a word that means “get into your crate please” like “crate,” “kennel up,” etc. Talk to a qualified trainer about crate training if the dog is having trouble.
Now let’s discuss how to train the dog to love being called to “come.” Think for a minute what your dog really loves. Most dogs love food, food, and more food. Some dogs really like to play or have a special toy. While other dogs love to be pet and have their belly or rump rubbed. Other dogs love praise like “good boy” when the owner says it in a high pitched voice, like when you talk to a small human baby. Whatever makes the dog happy is what you want to use to reinforce the behavior. Meaning, if the dog likes food, give the dog food when the dog comes when called. Keep in mind if the dog likes food, praise and petting, use all three of these. If the dog thinks he is better than sliced bread, the dog will race over to see what goodies are in store for him.
Practice and consistency are huge when teaching a reliable recall. Owners should practice ten recalls per day, every day, at different times of the day. The more you practice and consistently reward the dog for the recall, the more the dog learns “good things are here for you,” and the behavior of returning to the owner will happen. Think for a minute if there are already cues in the dog’s life that the dog comes running for. Some may be sounds, like hearing the crinkle of a treat bag, or the can opener. Other cues may be sayings like “Let’s go bye-bye in the car,” or “want a treat?” Sometimes the cue is visual, like seeing the leash to go out for a walk. However, what do all these have in common? The dog associates these sounds, sayings, or sights with fun things. The dog wants these things to happen. Therefore, the dog runs over as fast as he can to eat the treat or go for a ride in the car. Use these situations to your advantage! If you can guarantee the dog runs to you when they see the leash, say “come.” This way you are practicing a rewarding recall, and you can guarantee success. This will teach the dog “come” means you get dinner, go for a car ride, go out for a walk, get to play ball, eats treats, get your belly rubbed, etc. This will also help teach the dog food is not always involved. Yes, food treats are a very powerful motivator. They are used a lot during the learning process of teaching the recall. However, after the dog has an understanding of what “come” means, if the recall is always practiced with food, the dog will always expect food. If the dog knows there is no food around, sometimes the dog decides not to respond to the recall. Also, if you own a specific breed of dog and know the breed traits, use this to your advantage. For example: Retrievers usually love to play ball. The owner throws the ball, the dog gets it and comes back to the owner, drops the ball, then waits for the owner to throw it again.
Potty training is teaching a dog where to use the restroom. Most people want a dog to go potty outside. This post is geared toward outside training when using a crate.
First, the basics:
- Prevent the dog from going potty in the house. Manage the environment to a small section of the house so you can always supervise your dog. Crate your dog when you can’t supervise him. Put your dog on a food and water schedule. Reward your dog outside as soon as he is done going potty.
- If you acquired your dog from a breeder, or a rescue group that has foster parents, hopefully these people have been promoting proper potty habits. If you acquired your dog from a shelter with kennels, or a pet store, please remember the only place for the dog to eliminate was in his kennel/cage and he may take longer to potty train.
- Puppies under six months of age are still learning how to control their muscles. The rule of thumb for puppies is that they can “hold it” for a time equal to their age. Example: A two month old puppy can hold themselves for two hours. A three month old puppy can hold themselves for three hours. Now this “equation” is not set in stone and the time can vary either up or down depending on the dog.
- Puppies need to relieve themselves: after sleeping; before, during and after play; before and after eating or drinking; and before allowing the puppy to roam about your home.
- Accidents can and will happen. The more supervision with the dog, the less accidents will happen. Make sure to clean up accidents as soon as possible with an enzymatic cleaner.
- Punishment does NOT work with any kind of potty training! It does not matter if you catch your dog in the act. The only thing a dog learns when humans get angry and yell is that the act of elimination is not to be seen by humans. Dogs think “I’m making a piddle, and my human is yelling. I’m sorry, I didn’t know that would make you very angry. I’ll go out of your site the next time I have to use the facilities and hide it.” Now punishing a dog for elimination in the house “after-the-fact” is just plain confusing for the dog. Remember, whatever the dog was doing last is what the dog will think the correction is for. May be the dog was chewing on his toy and not the TV remote control, or may be the dog was coming to you at the front door. Do not rub the dog’s face in the mess unless you want to encourage eating poop.
- Having a dog on both a food and water schedule helps tremendously. If you know when it goes in, you will have a very good idea when it’s coming out.
- Rewarding the dog for proper potty habits will encourage proper potty habits. If a dog thinks they are the next best thing to sliced bread for using the restroom outside, they will want to repeat that behavior. Remember, in training a dog for any behavior, timing and consistency are critical. This means, every time the dog eliminates outside we reward the dog on the spot. If the reward is too late (like waiting until the dog has entered the house) the dog could very well associate another behavior for the reward, like entering the house, or sitting for the treat. If the reward in not consistent enough, the dog will be confused and potty training will take much longer.
- Most dogs like a clean living area. Crates, a small room, and baby gates are some tools used to help a dog learn to hold themselves.
- Most dogs like to relieve themselves on soft surfaces. This is why most dogs prefer grass to concrete. In the house: carpet, the sofa, the bed (dog’s or human’s,) and soft blankets in a crate are usually the spots dogs use to eliminate. During potty training (especially with puppies) it is strongly recommended to NOT put any kind of soft material in the crate.
Some common potty training problems:
I let my dog outside and all he does is play. I’ve even been outside for an hour hoping the dog will use the facilities and nothing happens. — 1. The dog may not want to mess up his “play area.” A specific part of the yard needs to be used, or a walk around the block. 2. The dog has learned it doesn’t need to eliminate to reward himself outside with play. The dog needs five minutes maximum outside to relieve himself, and if nothing happens the dog goes back into the crate for three to five more minutes. Repeat the process until the dog eliminates outside, and reward as soon as the dog’s finished. (Remember the dog is the next best thing to sliced bread for eliminating outside.)
I let my dog outside for a reasonable amount of time and as soon as I let him inside he pees on the floor. — 1. The dog may think he is supposed to go inside. This happens when there is not enough supervision and the dog goes at will inside, and the human(s) just don’t notice the messes; and/or there is a lack of communication to the dog, meaning an error in timing of the reward and consistency of rewarding the dog. More supervision is needed and the dog needs to be crated or leashed to a human when left inside the house. The dog needs five minutes maximum outside to relieve himself, and if nothing happens the dog goes back into the crate for three to five more minutes. Repeat the process until the dog eliminates outside, and reward as soon as the dog’s finished. 2. The dog may not want to mess up his “play area.” A specific part of the yard needs to be used as a potty area, or a walk around the block.
My dog is great in the house except for one room. - 1. The dog doesn’t understand the entire house is his home too, (and there are probably other messes that have gone undetected.) Crate training was probably moved along too fast. The dog should be back in the crate and moved along at a much slower rate as the “house expands.” Meaning, the dog has the crate. Then the dog has the crate and the kitchen. Then the dog has the crate, the kitchen, and the hallway, etc. 2. The dog smells the last time he eliminated in the same spot. Clean the area with an enzymatic cleaner. Do NOT use anything ammonia based, since ammonia is one of the main ingredients in urine. 3. The dog may be marking his territory. Start the “Nothing In Life Is Free” program. Supervise the dog at all times so accidents don’t occur. Spay or neuter the dog.
My dog was completely potty trained and just now started to piddle a small amount everywhere around the house. — 1. The dog may be marking his territory. Start a NILIF program. Use a crate and reward outside potty habits more. Train the dog to hit a bell to go outside. Supervise the dog at all times so accidents don’t occur. Spay or neuter the dog. 2. The dog may have a medical condition. See your veterinarian.
My dog eliminates in the crate. — 1. The dog is not properly crate trained or could be under stress. 2. The dog is in the crate too long. Dogs usually don’t want to potty in a crate, this doesn’t mean they won’t potty in a crate if left in one too long. Put the dog on a food, water, and walk schedule. Give the dog more opportunities outside to eliminate. 3. There is something soft in the crate that can absorb the pee. Take out anything soft and fluffy from the bottom of the crate. (Remember dogs like to eliminate on soft things.)
My puppy pees on the way to the door (or at the door) when I let him out of the crate or when I am going to let him outside. — 1. The puppy doesn’t have complete muscle control yet. Movement usually stimulates a puppy to eliminate. (This is why they must potty before and during and after playtime.) Carry the puppy outside to use the bathroom. Give the puppy more frequent potty breaks. Distract with food or a toy to get the puppy outside.
My dog goes outside and then fakes going to the bathroom. — 1. BE HAPPY!!! (Especially if this is a puppy faking it.) If your dog fakes using the facilities outside, your dog is telling you that he knows what is expected of him. He is trying to make his human happy, and he understands potty habits outside gets him rewards. 2. The dog is not faking it, but straining to eliminate. This can be a medical emergency and should be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible.
THINGS TO REMEMBER:
- Timing. Reward the dog as soon as the dog has finished eliminating outside. Don’t wait.
- Consistency. Reward the dog every time he eliminates outside.
- Supervise. If the dog is consistently under supervision, (especially puppies) the dog will have a lot less room for error and will mess in the house less frequently.
- Asking to go out. Train the dog to hit a bell or bark to go outside.
- Crate Train. Most dogs are den clean, meaning that they don’t want to mess up their home. This makes it easier for a dog to want to “hold it.”
- Schedule. A food and water schedule ensures a time frame for eliminating instead of guessing when the dog has to potty. Also have several scheduled times per day for the dog to go outside and relieve himself.
- Patience. Potty Training is sometimes a slow process. Understand some dogs can take up to six months to completely potty train.
- Reward. Anything the dog wants. For most dogs this is food, play, praise, and petting.
- Log everything. This is especially helpful if you have an entire family who is “helping” with the potty training. View an example of a potty training log HERE
Breed traits seem to have become a convenient excuse for lazy training. Have you ever heard “because he’s a Beagle, they just do that” or “Goldens are supposed to be friendly” etc? I hear reasons why this breed does that and that breed does this. But so what?
I am not saying breeds don’t have common characteristics because they do. I’m saying I hate it when there is no training done and no effort whatsoever is put forth, and results are expected or demanded. Well here’s a news flash; the entire soul of training is to manipulate behavior.
Let’s pretend you get a dog “known for” being friendly. And just because he is “supposed to” be laid back and good natured, you don’t socialize and just assume he’ll “supposed to.” Guess what? You will not only deprive critical socialization puppy experiences, you won’t teach anything about the world. (Remember training is teaching and dogs are always learning.) So even though Breed X is “supposed to” be friendly, it is very real to create quite the opposite by lack of training. I have also seen Breed X being forced to put up with far too much because they are “supposed to” be so tolerant. It’s not fair, and I have seen too many Breed X dogs “turn bad” because they were constantly thrown into situations they didn’t like.
On the flip side. Let’s pretend you get Breed Y who is “known for” being aloof and more reactive. How dumb is it to not take that information by the horns and start training asap? If the blueprints are right there saying, in a big fat ugly way “these can be potential problems” why ignore that? I actually read about (nameless breed) on (nameless rescue site), and I quote: “is rather independent and much like a cat will usually not come to you when called.” To which I say what a huge insult not only to the breed, but to cats as well. Sorry, but I call BS.
So I ask you, what do you focus on? Are breed traits restrictions or blueprints for training?
Imagine you are holding a winning lotto ticket. Let’s pretend it’s a winning scratch off ticket for $10.00 and your friend asks, “Let me see it?” Now pretend it’s a complete stranger who asks, “Can I see it?” Now pretend it’s a $100,000,000.00 winning ticket. Would you let your friend “see it?” How about a complete stranger? What if the person asking gives you the same amount as the ticket in cash as collateral while they hold it?
Now… imagine your dog with his “lotto ticket.” How much is it worth to the dog? Why (in the dog’s point of view) should he give it up? Is there a possibility of not getting the item back? Is it fun and non-threatening to relinquish the item?
Always remember the dog is always a good dog for giving up anything he has! If the dog drops his toy you should have the same reaction if the dog drops the TV remote control he was just chewing. Be happy and REWARD the dog for giving things up.
Step #1: Your dog feels comfortable with you around him when he has something in his mouth. (Ask about resource guarding if you are not sure about this.) When your dog has something, walk toward your dog, say, “drop it” and drop a treat on the floor beside the dog, and keep walking.
Step #2: Your dog feels comfortable with you talking to him when he has something in his mouth. Walk toward the dog, say, “drop it” and drop a treat on the ground. Stand near the dog. Let the dog eat the treat and just praise the dog. Walk away.
Step #3: Your dog feels comfortable with you petting him when he has something in his mouth. Walk toward the dog, say, “drop it” and drop treat on the ground. Pet and praise the dog. Walk away.
Step #4: Your dog will give up what he currently has temporarily to get something else, and is allowed to go right back to the item he had. Stand near the dog. Say, “drop it” and wait for the dog to “spit out” the item. Click the moment the dog gets the object out of his mouth. Throw treat on floor away from the item (about 3 feet.) Allow the dog to eat the treat. Repeat.
Step #5: Your dog will give up what he currently has to get something else while you reach for the item (but not pick it up.) Stand near the dog. Say, “drop it” and wait for the dog to “spit out” the item. Click the moment the dog gets the object out of his mouth. Throw several treats on floor away from the item (about 3 feet.) Allow the dog to eat the treats as you touch the item. Repeat.
Step #6: Your dog freely drops items in his possession to get something else. Doesn’t try and race you back to the object, you can now pick item up without any objection from the dog. Same as step #5, except you are now picking up the item instead of just touching it.
- Remember to practice with items you can give back to the dog.
- If you are working with a “resource guarding” dog, there are safety precautions that are necessary. Ask your trainer.
- This is an exchange exercise in the dog’s point of view. Remember to give your dog something good for giving up his “lotto ticket.”
Thank dog that all of my fuzzy family is trained! Many of you know I am moving. And I’m sure all of you know just how much fun it is to move. Well the other day the front door didn’t get shut all the way and every last animal I own was in my front yard — all three cats and the dog. Right there was one of those times you smile. Instead of going into a panic, you thank yourself for putting the time into training. Within one minute everyone was back inside getting treats and petting. My friends who were there know me as the behavior nerd who likes to train all sorts of animals and didn’t think twice about it. When I mentioned it to other people, the part about my dog coming when called wasn’t all that impressive, but the fact all my cats are trained seemed to “wow” people.
Training my cats was just as easy as training my dog. The best recall I find to teach cats is target. They are also trained a general recall the same way I taught my dog through shaping. I honestly don’t know how cat training is all that impressive. Cats are just as happy to learn behaviors for pay as dogs.
One of my cats is a tuna whore and the other two love turkey. I still keep treats interesting or limited so they hold their value. And the rule of “keep training sessions short” is critical to remember when cat training. I started off just shaking the kitty treat jar and then giving them all a few treats. They understood that sound in about a week. The can opener just about trained itself through classical conditioning. And training Target with clicker training was a cinch.
Eventually I need to get everyone trained to a silent whistle (shoe maker’s kids huh?).




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