Jul
28
2010

ReTeaching Kitty

image

So my big fat cat Spar­ta­cus just went through one heck of a uri­nary dilemma. He had crys­tals, UTI, bac­te­ria infec­tion, etc. He was also one of the lucky kit­ties who sur­vived a total block­age. Dur­ing all this he started to pee out­side the lit­ter box.

So, I did every­thing I knew to do.

Step #1 — Observe ALL behav­ior.  This is how I noticed he was strain­ing and pre­ferred to pee on flat sur­faces. Also, like I men­tioned before, he’s a BIG kitty. So, nor­mal lit­ter boxes were too small for his lik­ing. You see it was uncom­fort­able to turn around.

Step #2 — Change ONE thing at a time. After notic­ing the “Joe nor­mal” boxes were too small and hard to get into (high sides), I decided to use the bot­tom of a plas­tic dog crate. (Who says you can’t use other things?) He began to walk into the box entrance and pee, then back out.  And by doing this he was now going to the box, stick­ing at least half of him­self inside it, and pee­ing on the floor right at the entrance.

Step #3 — Keep chang­ing ONE thing at a time, and rein­forc­ing behav­ior you want. Even when he was only going halfway in the box (the last step), when I saw him pee on the floor I didn’t react. No yelling, no pun­ish­ments, in fact when he fin­ished I pet him. Why? Because that was improve­ment from pee­ing on the bed­room car­pet. I tried mov­ing the box, I added a box, changed lit­ter type, and baited it with cat nip. None of that worked. Then I real­ized I was think­ing of “cat” solu­tions instead of “Spar­ta­cus” solu­tions. Bingo! Flat sur­faces! Puppy pee pads instead of litter!

Step #4 — Reward and main­tain progress. Besides the obvi­ous med­ical help I gave my cat through­out this process, retrain­ing behav­ior was vital. In my mind, why the #?@% was my cat not act­ing like a cat and using the lit­ter box? Well, because in Spartacus’s mind going in the #?@%ing lit­ter box was painful, uncom­fort­able, and rep­re­sented kitty hell. 

Some­times we get stuck in a rut. We think what the ani­mal is sup­posed to do, and not what he is actu­ally doing. Some­times we think the only solu­tions are mar­keted for that par­tic­u­lar pet and sold in the clos­est pet store. Some­times we don’t walk a mile in their paws. And some­times we are blinded by progress just because it’s not the final result.

Remem­ber there’s always some­thing to change, to change behav­ior. And if ANY behav­ior changes it’s progress.

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Jun
14
2010

Please Me, To Please You, If You Please

Dogs are just like most other ani­mals, includ­ing us.  So it always makes me smile when I hear the, “I want my dog to want to please me” state­ment.  If you want me to give it to you straight, here it is:

Dogs don’t go out of their way to please us.  Dogs go out of their way to get some­thing they want or avoid some­thing they don’t want. So ask your­self, what hap­pens to the dog?  What hap­pens when you say “Come?”  Does he go into a crate for 8 hours?  Get a bath?  Leave the dog park?  Now think about what hap­pens when we say “Sit?”  Does he get a treat?  Get a tummy rub?  Get his leash on and go for a walk?  Get din­ner?  For what­ever rea­son, most peo­ple reward sit, AND use ran­dom rewards (aka, make rewards inter­est­ing by chang­ing them up), BUT for what­ever rea­son, most peo­ple  don’t ran­domly reward other behav­iors the same way. This makes sit a super strong behav­ior with lit­tle chance for extinc­tion, while every­thing else is “meeh.”

Stay using a  hand signal

Me? Sure I want a dog who “wants to work for me.”  I want a dog who is “on the pay­roll” with ran­dom rewards.  I want a dog who can’t wait for me to give the next cue so he can com­ply as fast as pos­si­ble.  And this is done through pos­i­tive train­ing and prac­tice to make your dog a gam­bler, to see what the next goodie is in store for him.

So put your dog on the pay­roll.  He doesn’t have to work full time, but should at least have a part time gig.  That’s how you get a dog who “wants to please you.”  When you think about it, he’s only work­ing to get some­thing to please him­self, by doing things that we want. But hey, we’re no dif­fer­ent! And I for one, would like a dog who doesn’t want to call out for a per­sonal day.

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Apr
19
2010

Financial Aid for Pets

Giv­ing what your pet dog (or cat) needs can be chal­leng­ing right now.  Times are tough these days and when I saw this list I received from another trainer, I just had to share it.  I have added sev­eral other orga­ni­za­tions and ask if you have any to add, let me know.  Remem­ber to check with your local ani­mal shel­ter and res­cues as well because they almost always work with a vet­eri­nar­ian for ser­vices such as low cost spay/neuter and vaccinations.
Financial Help For Pets

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Gen­eral Finan­cial Aid for Com­pan­ion Ani­mals Need­ing Med­ical Aid:
  • Exten­sive List of var­i­ous finan­cial aid pro­grams com­piled by United Ani­mal Nations
  • Exten­sive List of var­i­ous finan­cial aid pro­grams com­piled by The Humane Soci­ety of the United States
  • Exten­sive List of var­i­ous finan­cial aid pro­grams com­piled by PGAA
  • Angels4Animals Ser­vices range from finan­cial aid to com­plete treat­ment to those pets and pet own­ers in need
  • Amer­i­can Ani­mal Hos­pi­tal Asso­ci­a­tion Grants for low income/financial hard­ship cases as well as Good Samar­i­tan cases
  • United Ani­mal Nations’ Life­line Grants Med­ical grants of approx­i­mately $100 to $300
  • IMOM Finan­cial Aid Grants for life-threatening emer­gen­cies as well as Fundraising Privileges
  • Care Credit Credit granted specif­i­cally for med­ical care
  • The Pet Fund Pro­vides finan­cial assis­tance to own­ers of domes­tic ani­mals in need of vet care
  • Pig­gers’ Pals, A Foun­da­tion of Hope Assists fam­i­lies in need that require finan­cial assis­tance for advanced med­ical and/or sur­gi­cal care that will extend quan­tity and qual­ity of life of their pet
  • Gra­cie Foun­da­tion Pro­vides finan­cial assis­tance to non-profit res­cue groups.  Pro­vides imme­di­ate response and cru­cial sup­plies to pets in emer­gency situations
  • Onyx and Breezy Med­ical treat­ment of ani­mals where hard­ship is present

Feline-specific:

Ailment-specific:


Canine Breed-specific:

  • Pit Bull Res­cue Cen­tral Med­ical funds for owned, fos­tered or shel­tered pit bulls meet­ing cer­tain cri­te­ria
  • Ani­mal Farm Foun­da­tion Pit bull-specific grants in the areas of Spay-Neuter pro­grams, CGC incen­tives, achieve­ment awards and “Per­fect Match” awards
  • Akita Club of Amer­ica Funds emer­gency med­ical needs, includ­ing heart­worm treat­ment for pure­bred Aki­tas that are aban­doned, res­cued or at munic­i­pal shelters
  • Aus­tralian Cat­tle Dog Res­cue, Inc. Med­ical Fund for pure­bred Aus­tralian Cat­tle Dogs (aka Queens­land Heel­ers) that are in need of med­ical treat­ment and have been res­cued and are in fos­ter care
  • BEHAF (Bernese Moun­tain Dogs) Pro­vides finan­cial assis­tance to own­ers of pure­bred Bernese Moun­tain Dogs for med­ical expenses
  • Boxer Res­cue Foun­da­tion Finan­cial grants for the med­ical care of Box­ers in fos­ter care
  • Chow Chow Club, Inc’s Wel­fare Com­mit­tee Pro­vides finan­cial assis­tance to res­cue vol­un­teers and includes spay­ing or neu­ter­ing, vac­ci­na­tions, heart­worm test­ing, entropian correction
  • Cor­giAid, Inc. Pro­vides finan­cial fund­ing for the med­ical care of res­cue, fos­ter, or adopted Cor­gis and Corgi mixes
  • Dober­man 911 Offers finan­cial med­ical aid for Dober­mans with spe­cial med­ical needs.  They also aid in the fos­ter­ing and re-homing of senior Dober­mans
  • The Gold­stock Fund Pro­vides funds to res­cue orga­ni­za­tions or indi­vid­u­als for trans­porta­tion, board­ing, eval­u­a­tions and med­ical costs of Golden Retriev­ers and “golden hearted dogs” taken into rescue
  • Keeshond Sun­shine Res­cue Foun­da­tion Pro­vides finan­cial assis­tance for med­ical assis­tance of res­cued Keeshonds in fos­ter care
  • Lab Med Med­ical Fund for rescued/fostered Labrador Retriev­ers need­ing emer­gency care (Dogs must be pure­bred Labrador Retriev­ers or pre­dom­i­nantly Labs, exhibit­ing strong Labrador char­ac­ter­is­tics & traits)
  • Labrador Life­line, Inc. For own­ers or res­cuers of pure­bred Labrador Retriev­ers who are in need of finan­cial assis­tance.  Assists eli­gi­ble Lab owners/caretakers with med­ical assis­tance, trans­porta­tion needs, board­ing costs, etc.
  • Labrador Har­bor Pro­vides medical/surgical or train­ing inter­ven­tion for rescue/foster and owned dogs if care­taker shows finan­cial need.  Dog must be spayed/neutered or sign agree­ment to be spayed/neutered when health permits.
  • Pyra­medic Trust Pro­vides finan­cial assis­tance to Great Pyre­nese own­ers and res­cuers in need of emer­gency med­ical care
  • Tibetan Spaniel Trust Pro­vides finan­cial assis­tance to those who res­cue Tibetan Spaniels
  • Dougal’s Fund Pro­vides med­ical fund­ing when the dog’s care­taker can’t oth­er­wise afford it for short-legged ter­ri­ers such as Scot­ties, West­ies, Cairns, Nor­wich, Nor­folk, etc.
  • Westie Med, Inc. Pro­vides finan­cial aid to injured or ill res­cue Westies

For Non-Profit and/or Res­cue Groups:

  • PetS­mart Char­i­ties Var­i­ous grants to non-profits for spay/neuter, emer­gency relief, etc.
  • DJ&T Foun­da­tion Canine Spay/Neuter grants to non-profits
  • Pilots N Paws Flies res­cue ani­mals to new homes when trans­port is oth­er­wise dif­fi­cult or impossible
  • Click To Give An inter­net site you can visit daily to “click & give” food and care to var­i­ous res­cues, shel­ters, and char­i­ties around the world
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Apr
15
2010

Socialization Scavenger Hunt

Social­iza­tion Scav­enger Hunt

socialization is important for puppies

Here is a list of things to social­ize your puppy around.  Remem­ber, social­iza­tion is expo­sure with pleas­ant con­se­quences to teach accep­tance of new expe­ri­ences. Com­mon sense goes a long way when social­iz­ing a puppy.  If your puppy seems hes­i­tant, go slower, let the puppy approach the per­son (not vice-versa), use rewards like food, praise and pet­ting when the puppy does inves­ti­gate some­thing he was unsure of, and never force a puppy (this only cre­ates fear issues later).

  • Ten dif­fer­ent healthy, happy small dogs
  • Ten dif­fer­ent healthy, happy big dogs
  • Ten dif­fer­ent calm, well behaved, gen­tle children
  • Ten dif­fer­ent calm, well behaved, gen­tle teenagers
  • Thirty dif­fer­ent calm, well behaved, gen­tle adults
  • Ten tall people
  • Ten aver­age height people
  • Ten short people
  • Ten peo­ple wear­ing glasses
  • Ten peo­ple wear­ing hats or hoods
  • Fifty dif­fer­ent sounds
  • Five things red
  • Five things blue
  • Five things orange
  • Five things green
  • Five things purple
  • Five things yellow
  • One body of water, river, stream, or pool
  • Ten dif­fer­ent vehicles
  • Ten things that are not in your house
  • Fif­teen things you can only find outside
  • Twenty dif­fer­ent ring tones
  • Five dif­fer­ent sur­faces (sand, grass, con­crete, etc)
  • Five shiny things
  • Twenty dif­fer­ent dog toys
  • One fence
  • Five street signs
  • One crate or dog bed
  • Touch each paw twice a day for one week
  • Twenty other peo­ple to touch or pet the puppy
  • Twenty other peo­ple to give the puppy a treat
  • See, be near, or inter­act with super­vi­sion, three other ani­mals (cat, horse, etc)
  • Sniff on a walk at least five times, for at least ten walks
  • Respond to at least one easy cue (sit, tar­get, paw, etc) in ten dif­fer­ent sit­u­a­tions (you’re sit­ting, stand­ing, lay­ing in bed, mow­ing the grass, car­ry­ing in the gro­ceries, etc), in at least three dif­fer­ent envi­ron­ments (out­side, at your friend’s house, etc)
  • Eat a treat in twenty dif­fer­ent envi­ron­ments (your house, out­side, the vet’s, a friend’s house, on a walk, in the car, etc)


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Related Posts:

http://sitstayandplay.com/dogblog/socialization-skills

http://www.petexpertise.com/puppy-socialization-by-jules-nye.html?utm_source=streamsend&utm_medium=email&utm_content=6704741&utm_campaign=Stop%20Door%20Barking%2C%20Help%20a%20Dog%20Recover%2C%20Contest%20%26%20More%20-%20Pet%20Expertise%20October%20Article%20Newsletter

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Apr
11
2010

Use Your Inside Voice

When we held group classes we rarely, and I mean almost never had a bark­ing issue.  There was always plenty of space between dogs, bar­ri­ers (we used plas­tic air­line crates so then peo­ple could have a table too), and even another room con­nected by a half door (for the owner to see in).  And although the set up was great, I have to think that was only part of it.

Barking

The main trick in a group dog train­ing class is to train the dog.  The other part of the job many peo­ple don’t real­ize is to train the clients (the peo­ple) how to train their dog.  There­fore one of the first things we would teach peo­ple to do was about bark­ing.  If they heard another dog bark in class, no mat­ter what their dog was doing, they were to click and treat their dog, each and every time they heard a bark. What started to hap­pen was the dogs in class actu­ally learned to focus on their own­ers when another dog barked.  Because when the dog heard a bark, a rein­force­ment would come from their owner, so they learned to pay atten­tion to their own­ers.  And sooner than later, the owner could train through hear­ing a bark­ing dog.

We didn’t get a lot of prac­tice though, because we also would instruct the client who had the barker.  The own­ers of the bark­ing dog were instructed to com­pletely ignore the bark­ing dog until he paid some kind of atten­tion to them, and then com­pletely try and engage him by easy cues (sit, paw, tar­get, etc) and click and treat for work­ing.  The barker learned no rewards hap­pened from his own­ers, nor the other clients, nor the other dogs.  After test­ing out the bark­ing a few times the dog would learn there was no reward.  And with the lack of rein­force­ment, the bark­ing behav­ior extinguished.

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Mar
30
2010

The Recall

The secret behind a dog that comes when his owner calls him is that the dog wants to come back to the owner.  The peo­ple inter­act­ing with the dog make the recall fun and reward­ing.  This means the peo­ple train­ing the dog never pun­ish the dog, under any cir­cum­stances, when the dog returns to them.  One of the most suc­cess­ful ways to train a dog to come when called is to train with pos­i­tive rein­force­ment.  Every time the dog comes back to the owner, the dog is rewarded with food, praise, lots of pet­ting and love, or a favorite toy.  This will set the dog up for suc­cess, and the dog will really enjoy com­ing back to the owner when called.  Before we dis­cuss some tips on a reli­able recall, let’s take a look at some “com­mon human mis­takes.”  These are listed only so we can be aware of them, and to help avoid these sit­u­a­tions.  These sit­u­a­tions will also help us keep in mind that the recall has to be fun from the dog’s point of view.

Com­mon human mis­take: The dog is get­ting into the trash, or chew­ing on the $90 pair of shoes.  The owner gets mad and calls the dog over to yell at him.

Dog’s reac­tion: “It’s not fun to come when called.  I’ll do it this time because I’m scared when you get mad.  I slink over to you, with what you mis­take as guilt, but what is really sub­mis­sion.  I don’t under­stand you are try­ing to pun­ish me for a behav­ior that hap­pened some­where else, and prob­a­bly about 2 min­utes before I got over to you.”

Real­ity: The dog will think he is being yelled at for com­ing when called.  This is in no way fun for the dog.  Next time the dog will avoid the recall to avoid the yelling.

How to avoid this sit­u­a­tion: Don’t let the dog have access to “no-no’s.”  Have a trash can with a lid, and put the shoes in a closet.  Teach the dog basic obe­di­ence like “leave it” and “drop it.”  Talk to a qual­i­fied trainer about house destruc­tion.  Never call the dog over to pun­ish him.

Com­mon human mis­take: A dog has run away from his owner out­side and takes his time com­ing back.  The owner becomes angry that first the dog got away, and sec­ond that the dog didn’t respond to the first “come” com­mand.  The owner begins to chase the dog.

Dog’s reac­tion: “Wow, it’s fun to run around out­side.  Is that a squir­rel?  I need exer­cise.  Look, there’s my owner.  Oh, fun, he wants to chase me!  I can out-run him!”

Real­ity: Chas­ing a dog only makes the dog run away faster.  Dogs usu­ally love the chase game, and this will teach the dog to run away.

How to avoid this sit­u­a­tion: Make sure the dog is reli­able with his obe­di­ence in a dis­tract­ing sit­u­a­tion, like the great out­doors.  If the dog has never prac­ticed his obe­di­ence around dis­trac­tions, it’s really not fair to think the dog should or would respond in this envi­ron­ment.  Also, instead of chas­ing the dog, some dogs will gladly chase their human.  Try and run in the other direc­tion.  The ideal solu­tion is to make sure the dog doesn’t have the oppor­tu­nity to get away out­side.  Teach the dog to wait at door­ways, and teach proper leash manners.

Com­mon human mis­take: While play­ing in the dog park the dog is called to “come.”  The dog does respond to the com­mand, but not with enthu­si­asm.  The owner then leaves the dog park, or crates the dog for the day.

Dog’s reac­tion: “I under­stand what ‘come’ means.  Some­times I even get treats.  Lately though, I seem to leave all my friends at the park, or have to be in the crate for a while.  Next time I may want to play more, or not go into the crate.  I won­der when I’ll get food again.”

Real­ity: Remem­ber the recall has to be fun in the dog’s point of view. Leav­ing dog­gie friends and crat­ing up for the day isn’t as much fun as food or play.

How to avoid this sit­u­a­tion: Don’t con­sis­tently call the dog to leave fun sit­u­a­tions.  Instead, call the dog, and send him back out for more fun.  If the dog is get­ting more praise and per­mis­sion to play almost every time he comes back, this will out weigh the final “come” when it is time to leave.  If this is a crate sit­u­a­tion, pick a word that means “get into your crate please” like “crate,” “ken­nel up,” etc.  Talk to a qual­i­fied trainer about crate train­ing if the dog is hav­ing trouble.

Now let’s dis­cuss how to train the dog to love being called to “come.”  Think for a minute what your dog really loves.  Most dogs love food, food, and more food.  Some dogs really like to play or have a spe­cial toy.  While other dogs love to be pet and have their belly or rump rubbed.  Other dogs love praise like “good boy” when the owner says it in a high pitched voice, like when you talk to a small human baby.  What­ever makes the dog happy is what you want to use to rein­force the behav­ior.  Mean­ing, if the dog likes food, give the dog food when the dog comes when called.  Keep in mind if the dog likes food, praise and pet­ting, use all three of these.  If the dog thinks he is bet­ter than sliced bread, the dog will race over to see what good­ies are in store for him.

Prac­tice and con­sis­tency are huge when teach­ing a reli­able recall. Own­ers should prac­tice ten recalls per day, every day, at dif­fer­ent times of the day.  The more you prac­tice and con­sis­tently reward the dog for the recall, the more the dog learns “good things are here for you,” and the behav­ior of return­ing to the owner will hap­pen.  Think for a minute if there are already cues in the dog’s life that the dog comes run­ning for.  Some may be sounds, like hear­ing the crin­kle of a treat bag, or the can opener.  Other cues may be say­ings like “Let’s go bye-bye in the car,” or “want a treat?”  Some­times the cue is visual, like see­ing the leash to go out for a walk.  How­ever, what do all these have in com­mon?  The dog asso­ciates these sounds, say­ings, or sights with fun things.  The dog wants these things to hap­pen.  There­fore, the dog runs over as fast as he can to eat the treat or go for a ride in the car.  Use these sit­u­a­tions to your advan­tage!  If you can guar­an­tee the dog runs to you when they see the leash, say “come.”  This way you are prac­tic­ing a reward­ing recall, and you can guar­an­tee suc­cess.  This will teach the dog “come” means you get din­ner, go for a car ride, go out for a walk, get to play ball, eats treats, get your belly rubbed, etc.  This will also help teach the dog food is not always involved.  Yes, food treats are a very pow­er­ful moti­va­tor.  They are used a lot dur­ing the learn­ing process of teach­ing the recall.  How­ever, after the dog has an under­stand­ing of what “come” means, if the recall is always prac­ticed with food, the dog will always expect food.  If the dog knows there is no food around, some­times the dog decides not to respond to the recall.  Also, if you own a spe­cific breed of dog and know the breed traits, use this to your advan­tage.  For exam­ple: Retriev­ers usu­ally love to play ball.  The owner throws the ball, the dog gets it and comes back to the owner, drops the ball, then waits for the owner to throw it again.

Come When Called

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Mar
26
2010

Potty Training Basics

Potty train­ing is teach­ing a dog where to use the restroom.  Most peo­ple want a dog to go potty out­side.  This post is geared toward out­side train­ing when using a crate.

First, the basics:

  • Pre­vent the dog from going potty in the house.  Man­age the envi­ron­ment to a small sec­tion of the house so you can always super­vise your dog.  Crate your dog when you can’t super­vise him.  Put your dog on a food and water sched­ule.  Reward your dog out­side as soon as he is done going potty.
  • If you acquired your dog from a breeder, or a res­cue group that has fos­ter par­ents, hope­fully these peo­ple have been pro­mot­ing proper potty habits.  If you acquired your dog from a shel­ter with ken­nels, or a pet store, please remem­ber the only place for the dog to elim­i­nate was in his kennel/cage and he may take longer to potty train.
  • Pup­pies under six months of age are still learn­ing how to con­trol their mus­cles.  The rule of thumb for pup­pies is that they can “hold it” for a time equal to their age.  Exam­ple: A two month old puppy can hold them­selves for two hours.  A three month old puppy can hold them­selves for three hours.  Now this “equa­tion” is not set in stone and the time can vary either up or down depend­ing on the dog.
  • Pup­pies need to relieve them­selves: after sleep­ing; before, dur­ing and after play; before and after eat­ing or drink­ing; and before allow­ing the puppy to roam about your home.
  • Acci­dents can and will hap­pen.  The more super­vi­sion with the dog, the less acci­dents will hap­pen.  Make sure to clean up acci­dents as soon as pos­si­ble with an enzy­matic cleaner.
  • Pun­ish­ment does NOT work with any kind of potty train­ing!  It does not mat­ter if you catch your dog in the act.  The only thing a dog learns when humans get angry and yell is that the act of elim­i­na­tion is not to be seen by humans.  Dogs think “I’m mak­ing a pid­dle, and my human is yelling.  I’m sorry, I didn’t know that would make you very angry.  I’ll go out of your site the next time I have to use the facil­i­ties and hide it.”  Now pun­ish­ing a dog for elim­i­na­tion in the house “after-the-fact” is just plain con­fus­ing for the dog.  Remem­ber, what­ever the dog was doing last is what the dog will think the cor­rec­tion is for.  May be the dog was chew­ing on his toy and not the TV remote con­trol, or may be the dog was com­ing to you at the front door.  Do not rub the dog’s face in the mess unless you want to encour­age eat­ing poop.
  • Hav­ing a dog on both a food and water sched­ule helps tremen­dously.  If you know when it goes in, you will have a very good idea when it’s com­ing out.
  • Reward­ing the dog for proper potty habits will encour­age proper potty habits.  If a dog thinks they are the next best thing to sliced bread for using the restroom out­side, they will want to repeat that behav­ior.  Remem­ber, in train­ing a dog for any behav­ior, tim­ing and con­sis­tency are crit­i­cal.  This means, every time the dog elim­i­nates out­side we reward the dog on the spot.  If the reward is too late (like wait­ing until the dog has entered the house) the dog could very well asso­ciate another behav­ior for the reward, like enter­ing the house, or sit­ting for the treat.  If the reward in not con­sis­tent enough, the dog will be con­fused and potty train­ing will take much longer.
  • Most dogs like a clean liv­ing area.  Crates, a small room, and baby gates are some tools used to help a dog learn to hold themselves.
  • Most dogs like to relieve them­selves on soft sur­faces.  This is why most dogs pre­fer grass to con­crete.  In the house: car­pet, the sofa, the bed (dog’s or human’s,) and soft blan­kets in a crate are usu­ally the spots dogs use to elim­i­nate.  Dur­ing potty train­ing (espe­cially with pup­pies) it is strongly rec­om­mended to NOT put any kind of soft mate­r­ial in the crate.

    Some com­mon potty train­ing problems:

    I let my dog out­side and all he does is play.  I’ve even been out­side for an hour hop­ing the dog will use the facil­i­ties and noth­ing hap­pens. — 1. The dog may not want to mess up his “play area.” A spe­cific part of the yard needs to be used, or a walk around the block.  2. The dog has learned it doesn’t need to elim­i­nate to reward him­self out­side with play.  The dog needs five min­utes max­i­mum out­side to relieve him­self, and if noth­ing hap­pens the dog goes back into the crate for three to five more min­utes.  Repeat the process until the dog elim­i­nates out­side, and reward as soon as the dog’s fin­ished.  (Remem­ber the dog is the next best thing to sliced bread for elim­i­nat­ing outside.)

    I let my dog out­side for a rea­son­able amount of time and as soon as I let him inside he pees on the floor.  — 1. The dog may think he is sup­posed to go inside.  This hap­pens when there is not enough super­vi­sion and the dog goes at will inside, and the human(s) just don’t notice the messes; and/or there is a lack of com­mu­ni­ca­tion to the dog, mean­ing an error in tim­ing of the reward and con­sis­tency of reward­ing the dog.  More super­vi­sion is needed and the dog needs to be crated or leashed to a human when left inside the house.  The dog needs five min­utes max­i­mum out­side to relieve him­self, and if noth­ing hap­pens the dog goes back into the crate for three to five more min­utes.  Repeat the process until the dog elim­i­nates out­side, and reward as soon as the dog’s fin­ished.  2. The dog may not want to mess up his “play area.”  A spe­cific part of the yard needs to be used as a potty area, or a walk around the block.

    My dog is great in the house except for one room. -  1. The dog doesn’t under­stand the entire house is his home too, (and there are prob­a­bly other messes that have gone unde­tected.)  Crate train­ing was prob­a­bly moved along too fast.  The dog should be back in the crate and moved along at a much slower rate as the “house expands.”  Mean­ing, the dog has the crate.  Then the dog has the crate and the kitchen.  Then the dog has the crate, the kitchen, and the hall­way, etc.  2. The dog smells the last time he elim­i­nated in the same spot.  Clean the area with an enzy­matic cleaner.  Do NOT use any­thing ammo­nia based, since ammo­nia is one of the main ingre­di­ents in urine.  3. The dog may be mark­ing his ter­ri­tory.  Start the “Noth­ing In Life Is Free” pro­gram.  Super­vise the dog at all times so acci­dents don’t occur.  Spay or neuter the dog.

    My dog was com­pletely potty trained and just now started to pid­dle a small amount every­where around the house. — 1. The dog may be mark­ing his ter­ri­tory.  Start a NILIF pro­gram.  Use a crate and reward out­side potty habits more.  Train the dog to hit a bell to go out­side.  Super­vise the dog at all times so acci­dents don’t occur.  Spay or neuter the dog.  2. The dog may have a med­ical con­di­tion.  See your veterinarian.

    My dog elim­i­nates in the crate.  — 1. The dog is not prop­erly crate trained or could be under stress.  2. The dog is in the crate too long.  Dogs usu­ally don’t want to potty in a crate, this doesn’t mean they won’t potty in a crate if left in one too long. Put the dog on a food, water, and walk sched­ule.  Give the dog more oppor­tu­ni­ties out­side to elim­i­nate.  3. There is some­thing soft in the crate that can absorb the pee.  Take out any­thing soft and fluffy from the bot­tom of the crate.  (Remem­ber dogs like to elim­i­nate on soft things.)

    My puppy pees on the way to the door (or at the door) when I let him out of the crate or when I am going to let him out­side.  — 1. The puppy doesn’t have com­plete mus­cle con­trol yet.  Move­ment usu­ally stim­u­lates a puppy to elim­i­nate.  (This is why they must potty before and dur­ing and after play­time.)  Carry the puppy out­side to use the bath­room.  Give the puppy more fre­quent potty breaks.  Dis­tract with food or a toy to get the puppy outside.

    My dog goes out­side and then fakes going to the bath­room.  — 1. BE HAPPY!!! (Espe­cially if this is a puppy fak­ing it.)  If your dog fakes using the facil­i­ties out­side, your dog is telling you that he knows what is expected of him. He is try­ing to make his human happy, and he under­stands potty habits out­side gets him rewards.  2. The dog is not fak­ing it, but strain­ing to elim­i­nate.  This can be a med­ical emer­gency and should be seen by a vet­eri­nar­ian as soon as possible.

    THINGS TO REMEMBER:

    • Tim­ing. Reward the dog as soon as the dog has fin­ished elim­i­nat­ing out­side.  Don’t wait.
    • Con­sis­tency. Reward the dog every time he elim­i­nates outside.
    • Super­vise. If the dog is con­sis­tently under super­vi­sion, (espe­cially pup­pies) the dog will have a lot less room for error and will mess in the house less frequently.
    • Ask­ing to go out. Train the dog to hit a bell or bark to go outside.
    • Crate Train. Most dogs are den clean, mean­ing that they don’t want to mess up their home.  This makes it eas­ier for a dog to want to “hold it.”
    • Sched­ule. A food and water sched­ule ensures a time frame for elim­i­nat­ing instead of guess­ing when the dog has to potty.  Also have sev­eral sched­uled times per day for the dog to go out­side and relieve himself.
    • Patience. Potty Train­ing is some­times a slow process.  Under­stand some dogs can take up to six months to com­pletely potty train.
    • Reward. Any­thing the dog wants.  For most dogs this is food, play, praise, and petting.
    • Log every­thing. This is espe­cially help­ful if you have an entire fam­ily who is “help­ing” with the potty train­ing.  View an exam­ple of a potty train­ing log HERE
    potty training

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    Mar
    24
    2010

    Breed Traits, Excuse or Blueprint?

    Breed traits seem to have become a con­ve­nient excuse for lazy train­ing. Have you ever heard “because he’s a Bea­gle, they just do that” or “Gold­ens are sup­posed to be friendly” etc? I hear rea­sons why this breed does that and that breed does this. But so what?

    I am not say­ing breeds don’t have com­mon char­ac­ter­is­tics because they do. I’m say­ing I hate it when there is no train­ing done and no effort what­so­ever is put forth, and results are expected or demanded. Well here’s a news flash; the entire soul of train­ing is to manip­u­late behavior.

    Let’s pre­tend you get a dog “known for” being friendly. And just because he is “sup­posed to” be laid back and good natured, you don’t social­ize and just assume he’ll “sup­posed to.” Guess what? You will not only deprive crit­i­cal social­iza­tion puppy expe­ri­ences, you won’t teach any­thing about the world. (Remem­ber train­ing is teach­ing and dogs are always learn­ing.) So even though Breed X is “sup­posed to” be friendly, it is very real to cre­ate quite the oppo­site by lack of train­ing. I have also seen Breed X being forced to put up with far too much because they are “sup­posed to” be so tol­er­ant. It’s not fair, and I have seen too many Breed X dogs “turn bad” because they were con­stantly thrown into sit­u­a­tions they didn’t like.

    On the flip side. Let’s pre­tend you get Breed Y who is “known for” being aloof and more reac­tive. How dumb is it to not take that infor­ma­tion by the horns and start train­ing asap? If the blue­prints are right there say­ing, in a big fat ugly way “these can be poten­tial prob­lems” why ignore that? I actu­ally read about (name­less breed) on (name­less res­cue site), and I quote: “is rather inde­pen­dent and much like a cat will usu­ally not come to you when called.” To which I say what a huge insult not only to the breed, but to cats as well. Sorry, but I call BS.

    So I ask you, what do you focus on? Are breed traits restric­tions or blue­prints for training?

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    Mar
    23
    2010

    Drop It

    Imag­ine you are hold­ing a win­ning lotto ticket.  Let’s pre­tend it’s a win­ning scratch off ticket for $10.00 and your friend asks, “Let me see it?”  Now pre­tend it’s a com­plete stranger who asks, “Can I see it?”  Now pre­tend it’s a $100,000,000.00 win­ning ticket.  Would you let your friend “see it?”  How about a com­plete stranger?  What if the per­son ask­ing gives you the same amount as the ticket in cash as col­lat­eral while they hold it?

    Now… imag­ine your dog with his “lotto ticket.”  How much is it worth to the dog?  Why (in the dog’s point of view) should he give it up?  Is there a pos­si­bil­ity of not get­ting the item back?  Is it fun and non-threatening to relin­quish the item?

    Always remem­ber the dog is always a good dog for giv­ing up any­thing he has!  If the dog drops his toy you should have the same reac­tion if the dog drops the TV remote con­trol he was just chew­ing.  Be happy and REWARD the dog for giv­ing things up.

    Step #1:  Your dog feels com­fort­able with you around him when he has some­thing in his mouth.  (Ask about resource guard­ing if you are not sure about this.)  When your dog has some­thing, walk toward your dog, say, “drop it” and drop a treat on the floor beside the dog, and keep walking.

    Step #2:  Your dog feels com­fort­able with you talk­ing to him when he has some­thing in his mouth. Walk toward the dog, say, “drop it” and drop a treat on the ground.  Stand near the dog.  Let the dog eat the treat and just praise the dog.  Walk away.

    Step #3:  Your dog feels com­fort­able with you pet­ting him when he has some­thing in his mouth.  Walk toward the dog, say, “drop it” and drop treat on the ground.  Pet and praise the dog.  Walk away.

    Step #4:  Your dog will give up what he cur­rently has tem­porar­ily to get some­thing else, and is allowed to go right back to the item he had.  Stand near the dog.  Say, “drop it” and wait for the dog to “spit out” the item.  Click the moment the dog gets the object out of his mouth.  Throw treat on floor away from the item (about 3 feet.)  Allow the dog to eat the treat.  Repeat.

    Step #5:  Your dog will give up what he cur­rently has to get some­thing else while you reach for the item (but not pick it up.)  Stand near the dog.  Say, “drop it” and wait for the dog to “spit out” the item.  Click the moment the dog gets the object out of his mouth.  Throw sev­eral treats on floor away from the item (about 3 feet.)  Allow the dog to eat the treats as you touch the item.  Repeat.

    Step #6:  Your dog freely drops items in his pos­ses­sion to get some­thing else.  Doesn’t try and race you back to the object, you can now pick item up with­out any objec­tion from the dog.  Same as step #5, except you are now pick­ing up the item instead of just touch­ing it.

    Training your dog to Drop It

    • Remem­ber to prac­tice with items you can give back to the dog.
    • If you are work­ing with a “resource guard­ing” dog, there are safety pre­cau­tions that are nec­es­sary.  Ask your trainer.
    • This is an exchange exer­cise in the dog’s point of view.  Remem­ber to give your dog some­thing good for giv­ing up his “lotto ticket.”
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    Mar
    22
    2010

    Moving Is A Pain In The Pooper

    Thank dog that all of my fuzzy fam­ily is trained! Many of you know I am mov­ing. And I’m sure all of you know just how much fun it is to move. Well the other day the front door didn’t get shut all the way and every last ani­mal I own was in my front yard — all three cats and the dog. Right there was one of those times you smile. Instead of going into a panic, you thank your­self for putting the time into train­ing. Within one minute every­one was back inside get­ting treats and pet­ting. My friends who were there know me as the behav­ior nerd who likes to train all sorts of ani­mals and didn’t think twice about it. When I men­tioned it to other peo­ple, the part about my dog com­ing when called wasn’t all that impres­sive, but the fact all my cats are trained seemed to “wow” people.

    Train­ing my cats was just as easy as train­ing my dog. The best recall I find to teach cats is tar­get. They are also trained a gen­eral recall the same way I taught my dog through shap­ing. I hon­estly don’t know how cat train­ing is all that impres­sive. Cats are just as happy to learn behav­iors for pay as dogs.

    One of my cats is a tuna whore and the other two love turkey. I still keep treats inter­est­ing or lim­ited so they hold their value. And the rule of “keep train­ing ses­sions short” is crit­i­cal to remem­ber when cat train­ing. I started off just shak­ing the kitty treat jar and then giv­ing them all a few treats. They under­stood that sound in about a week. The can opener just about trained itself through clas­si­cal con­di­tion­ing. And train­ing Tar­get with clicker train­ing was a cinch.

    Even­tu­ally I need to get every­one trained to a silent whis­tle (shoe maker’s kids huh?).

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